Showing posts with label FICO. Show all posts
Showing posts with label FICO. Show all posts

5 Sneaky Ways to Improve Your Credit Score - Clark Howard

5 Sneaky Ways to Improve Your Credit Score - Clark Howard: There are certain times when it pays to have the highest credit score possible. Here are a few under-the-radar ways to boost your credit score quickly.



5 Sneaky Ways to Improve Your Credit Score




There are certain times when it pays to have the highest credit score possible. Maybe you’re about to refinance your mortgage. Or maybe you’re recovering from a bad credit history and you want to get approved for a credit card.

It’s always good to have a healthy score, of course.

But if you’re in a place where you really need to up that score as soon as possible, there are a few under-the-radar ways to speed up the process.

How to Raise Your Credit Score Fast

How long will it take to increase your credit score? It won’t happen instantly, but if you follow the steps in this article your credit score will begin to go up within a couple of months. Let’s get started.

1. Find Out When Your Issuer Reports Payment History

Call your credit card issuer and ask when your balance gets reported to the credit bureaus. That day is often the closing date (or the last day of the billing cycle) on your account. Note that this is different from the “due date” on your statement.

There’s something called a “credit utilization ratio.” It’s the amount of credit you’ve used compared to the amount of credit you have available. You have a ratio for your overall credit card use as well as for each credit card.

It’s best to have a ratio — overall and on individual cards — of less than 30%. But here’s an insider tip: To boost your score more quickly, keep your credit utilization ratio under 10%.

Here’s an example of how the utilization ratio is calculated:

Let’s say you have two credit cards. Card A has a $6,000 credit limit and a $2,500 balance. Card B has a $10,000 limit and you have a $1,000 balance on it.

This is your utilization ratio per card:

Card A = 42% (2,500/6,000 = .416, or 42%), which is too high.

Card B = 10% (1,000/10,000 = .100, or 10%), which is awesome.

This is your overall credit utilization ratio: 22% (3,500/16,000 = 0.218), which is very good.

But here’s the problem: Even if you pay your balance off every month (and you should), if your payment is received after the reporting date, your reported balance could be high — and that negatively impacts your score because your ratio appears inflated.

So pay your bill just before the closing date. That way, your reported balance will be low or even zero. The FICO method will then use the lower balance to calculate your score. This lowers your utilization ratio and boosts your score.

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2. Pay Down Debt Strategically

Okay, let’s build on what you just learned about utilization ratios.

In the above example, you have balances on more than one card. Note that Card A has a 42% ratio, which is high, and Card B has a wonderfully low 10% ratio.

Since the FICO score also looks at each card’s ratio, you can bump up your score by paying down the card with the higher balance. In the example above, pay down the balance on Card A to about $1,500 and your new ratio for Card A is 25% (1,500/6,000 = .25). Much better!

3. Pay Twice a Month

Let’s say you’ve had a rough couple of months with your finances. Maybe you needed to rebuild your deck (raising my hand) or get a new fridge. If you put big items on a credit card to get the rewards, it can temporarily throw your utilization ratio (and your credit score) out of whack.

You know that call you made to get the closing date? Make a payment two weeks before the closing date and then make another payment just before the closing date. This, of course, assumes you have the money to pay off your big expense by the end of the month.

Take care not to use a credit card for a big bill if you plan to carry a balance. The compound interest will create an ugly pile of debt pretty quickly. Credit cards should never be used for long-term loans unless you have a card with a zero percent introductory APR on purchases. Even then, you have to be mindful of the balance on the card and make sure you can pay the bill off before the intro period ends.

4. Raise Your Credit Limits

If you tend to have problems with overspending, don’t try this.

The goal is to raise your credit limit on one or more cards so that your utilization ratio goes down. But again, this only works out in your favor if you don’t feel compelled to use the newly available credit.

I also don’t recommend trying this if you have missed payments with the issuer or have a downward-trending score. The issuer could see your request for a credit limit increase as a sign that you’re about to have a financial crisis and need the extra credit. I’ve actually seen this result in a decrease in credit limits. So be sure your situation looks stable before you ask for an increase.

That said, as long as you’ve been a great customer and your score is reasonably healthy, this is a good strategy to try.

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All you have to do is call your credit card company and ask for an increase to your credit limit. Have an amount in mind before you call. Make that amount a little higher than what you want in case they feel the need to negotiate.

Remember the example in #1? Card A has a $6,000 limit and you have a $2,500 balance on it. That’s a 42% utilization ratio (2,500/6,000 = .416, or 42%).

If your limit goes up to $8,500, then your new ratio is a more pleasing 29% (2,500/8,500 = .294, or 29%). The higher the limit, the lower your ratio will be and this helps your score.

5. Mix It Up

A few years back, I realized I didn’t have much of a mix of credit. I have credit cards with low utilization ratios and a mortgage, but I hadn’t paid off an installment loan for a couple of decades.

I wanted to raise my score a nudge, so I decided to get a car loan at a very low rate. I spent a year paying it off just to get a mix in my credit. At first, my score went down a little, but after about six months, my score started increasing. Your credit mix is only 10% of your FICO score, but sometimes that little bit can bump you up from good credit to excellent credit.

A 3D pie chart calculating the 5 categories that make up a credit score including 35% for payment history, 30% for amounts owed, 10% for credit mix, 10% for new credit and 15% for credit history
5 categories that make up your credit score

I wasn’t planning on applying for credit within the next six months, so my approach was fine. But if you’re refinancing your mortgage (or planning something else really big) and you want a quick boost, don’t use this strategy. This is a good one for a long-term approach.

Bottom Line

When you want to boost your credit score, there are two basic rules you have to follow:

First, keep your credit card balances low.

Second, pay your bills on time (and in full). Do these two things and then toss in one or more of the sneaky ways above to give your score a kickstart.

And remember — you do not have to carry a balance to build a good score. If you do that, you’re on a slippery slope to debt.

Louisville Kentucky Mortgage Lender for FHA, VA, KHC, USDA and Rural Housing Kentucky Mortgage: What credit score do mortgage lenders use?

Louisville Kentucky Mortgage Lender for FHA, VA, KHC, USDA and Rural Housing Kentucky Mortgage: What credit score do mortgage lenders use?: Which FICO Score Generation Do Mortgage Lenders Use? The best-known credit scores are going to fall under either the  FICO or VantageScore ...


Mortgage lenders pull one of each and compile the reports in a document called a Residential Mortgage Credit Report.

What your credit score means for your mortgage

What your credit score means for your mortgage:




Does your credit score affect getting a mortgage? It sure does. Here’s how and what to do about it.

When it comes to buying a house, your credit score is a lot like your old SAT score. A high one is a distinct advantage. A mediocre one isn’t the end of the world, because other factors matter too. But a very low score? Well … that’s a little harder to overcome. You might need a do-over.
Here's the deal: your credit score—specifically your FICO score—is basically an assessment of how you handle debt. It tells lenders how dependable you’ll be at paying back a loan. That means your score can determine whether you’ll qualify for a mortgage at all, as well as which loan options might be available to you. And once you do qualify, it usually affects your interest rate, which determines how much you’ll pay over the life of your loan. Which for most of us means the next 30 years. Lastly, it can also affect the fees associated with your loan.
So let’s unpack the full impact of your credit score—that number lurking in the background of every consumer’s life.
Your mortgage-worthiness (the Cliffs Notes version)


Your FICO score will directly affect your mortgage in four ways:
Whether you’ll qualify for a loan at all
Your loan options
What your interest rate will be
Extra loan fees you might pay


Before we dig deeper
Here’s a rough breakdown of what your score will probably mean:
750+ You should qualify for a variety of mortgages, with the best interest rates and the lowest fees.
680+ You’re likely to qualify, and with a good interest rate and standard fees.
600 – 680 You might qualify, but you’ll probably have fewer loan options and pay a higher interest rate and fees.
350 – 599 You probably won't qualify for a mortgage, except in some special cases.
Read on for the details. But keep in mind: lenders don't look at your credit score in isolation. There are three other important credit factors, so all is not lost if yours is kind of... meh.


Different scores, different mortgage options
Where you fall on the credit score spectrum will affect what type of loan you can get. This overview can’t cover all the loan products and programs out there. Some are state-specific. To make sure you’re aware of all the options that might work for your unique situation, it’s best to consult a local homeownership advisor.
Excellent credit score? Look into a conventional mortgage
Conventional mortgage loans are those that aren’t government-insured or guaranteed. They’re made strictly by private lenders, like banks and credit unions.
Major plus: Conventional loans tend to have the best interest rates.
Major caveat: To qualify, you usually also need excellent overall credit, steady employment, and a pretty good income. And remember that if your down payment is less than 20%, you’ll probably need to buy private mortgage insurance (PMI). Your lender will definitely inform you if that's the case.
Medium or low credit score? Look into a government-backed loan
Government-backed loans are very popular with first-time homebuyers because they make buying easier financially, including for homebuyers whose credit score is south of sparkly. That’s a lot of us: simply being younger lowers your credit score, since you haven’t had as much time to build up a credit history.
Major plus: More flexible standards for your credit score and overall credit. In addition, government-backed loans often have a lower or even no down payment.
Major caveat: The government sets its own minimum credit score standards, but lenders are free to impose stricter ones and often do. Plus, some have income or other limits that might count you out.
Here are the main government-backed loans. Again, we’re focusing on credit scores, but remember that the various loans have different requirements, and different benefits too. As we suggested earlier, the best way to kick-start start your research is probably a talk with a homeownership advisor, who will be up-to-date on all of them.
Federal Housing Administration (FHA) loan: If your credit score is 580 or better, your down payment can be as little as 3.5 percent. You can search for an FHA lender at HUD.gov
Fannie Mae’s HomeReady loan: You’ll need a credit score of 620 or higher, depending on factors like your debt-to-income ratio. Your down payment can be as little as 3 percent. Here’s a good Zillow article on this one.
USDA rural development (RD) loan: This loan is only available to lower-income homebuyers who want to live in designated rural areas, which includes towns with populations under 20,000. It requires a credit score of at least 640. It’s one of the only zero-down-payment options out there. Learn more at USDA.gov.
Veterans Administration (VA) loan: Are you or a family member in the armed services? Explore this loan. The VA doesn’t enforce a minimum credit score, but most lenders want to see at least 620. Big plus: unlike other loans, this one doesn’t base your interest rate on your credit score, so a low score won’t saddle you with a high one. Visit VA.gov.
Your interest rate: small number, huge impact


With most loan options, your credit score is a big driver of the interest rate you’ll end up paying on your mortgage. Not to mention on loans for other major purchases, like a car. It works like a see-saw: when your credit score goes up, your interest rate comes down, and of course vice versa. A good guideline is that you’ll take a hit every 20 points or so.
The impact on your monthly payment can be significant. The impact over the life of the loan can be jaw-dropping!
Let’s say, for example, you want to borrow $300,000 in the form of the typical fixed-rate 30-year mortgage. If your FICO score is 780, the lender might give you a rate of 3.5 percent. Your monthly payment would be about $1,347. If your score is more average, say 680, you might get a rate of 3.75 percent, for a monthly payment of $1,389.
That’s another $42 a month because of that quarter-percent rate difference. Maybe that doesn’t sound so bad. But fasten your seatbelt for how much extra you’ll pay over the life of the loan: more than $15,000! That’s a lot of money you could have put into the house itself or stashed in an IRA. As you can see, it pays to take charge of your credit score.


Heads-up on some hidden fees
Little-known fact about conventional loans: your credit score can also affect various industry-standard “risk-based” fees, some of which lenders don’t even think to explain. The two main ones are LLPAs (loan-level pricing adjustment) and G-fees (guaranteed fees).
Such “add-ons” in turn are one reason why the interest rate a lender quotes you might be mysteriously different from what you see advertised. In other cases, you’ll be asked to pay extra at closing.
While these fees can have a significant impact on your bottom line, the government-backed loans that don’t charge them have their own fees and restrictions. Confusing, right? At the risk of sounding like a broken record … this is another case where a homeownership advisor will be able to help you weigh the variables and settle on the mortgage that works best for you.
So should you boost your credit score before buying?


Some score fixes can be pretty fast, but others take real work and time. If your credit score is on the low side, should you work on raising it before you buy, or go ahead and buy now? There’s no easy answer, because it’s so dependent on individual and market circumstances that can offset a lower credit score. A homeownership advisor can help you think it through.
In the meantime, here are some questions to ask yourself:
Can you come up with a larger down payment? That can offset a lower score.
Or should you use that money to improve your credit score by paying down debt?
Are rents or home prices rising fast in your area? Getting into the market now might save more than your credit score will cost you.
Are interest rates in general going up fast?
Have you found a house that’s can’t-pass-up perfect?

KENNETH R. HARNEY: Your FICO score is not your mortgage destiny

KENNETH R. HARNEY: Your FICO score is not your mortgage destiny




the current market shift — lenders willing to take on slightly more risk with lower-scoring borrowers — is borne out by new data from mortgage software giant Ellie Mae. In its latest study of rates, scores, down payments and other loan terms, researchers found that in December of last year, fully two-thirds — 66.1 percent — of homebuyers insured by the Federal Housing Administration (FHA) had FICO scores below 700. 

A remarkable 5.1 percent of these had deep subprime scores between 500 and 599, indicating exceptionally high risk of future default. At the other end of the scale, just 1.9 percent had FICO scores of 800 or above. 

To be fair, FHA traditionally has served homebuyers with lower scores than those in the conventional market served by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. But the agency has been slightly more lenient recently on scores and debt-to-income ratios.
Fannie and Freddie also have been open to a wider swath of buyers than many home shoppers might assume. According to Ellie Mae’s December report, more than 1 percent of conventional purchase-loan borrowers had deep subprime FICO scores between 500 and 599. More than one in six loans — 17.7 percent — had scores below 700.
In both FHA and conventional loans, borrowers with low scores may have had “mitigating factors” in their applications that reduced risk, such as high bank reserves or exceptional employment stability.




Joel Lobb (NMLS#57916)
Senior  Loan Officer
American Mortgage Solutions, Inc.
10602 Timberwood Circle Suite 3
Louisville, KY 40223
Company ID #1364 | MB73346

Text/call 502-905-3708

kentuckyloan@gmail.com
If you are an individual with disabilities who needs accommodation, or you are having difficulty using our website to apply for a loan, please contact us at 502-905-3708.
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